February – Exeter and Sample Sewing

We have all experienced terrible weather this month – the only upside seemingly that crafting seems justified. We can curl up on the sofa and sew a new friend for Luna, or knit some beautiful yarn into a wind defying scarf.

Here in Cumbria, we have been busy getting ready for the first show of the year at Exeter. There is a nervousness to our gathering of stock, will people still love Luna, what will we forget, will our new rescue dog – Harvey – cope with being in the van whilst we work? We have to think back to what will be fresh for Exeter, it being a whole year since we travelled to Westpoint.

Whilst the girls – Joan, Sheila and Sue – are busy preparing kits ( Daisy, Freya and the Briar Bunnies will be our big push), I’m not happy until I have something completely new to show. So I allocate a big sewing weekend to showcase some of the new fabrics we have in.

My career has been built on understanding garments, the construction, fit, the right fabric to the right shape, the perfect colour for now, wearability, achievability – I love this part of the business because it is what plays in my head. Whilst you might be thinking about plants or food, philosophy or exercise – my head plays with why people wear what they wear, why certain colours and textures are right, how this or that garment could be more true, where fashion is taking clothing.

I choose my fabrics and styles based on availability and commerciality – here you can see what I chose to make – I sew super fast and normally without error – but I have to say the Bessie sleeves are back to front and I am not changing them now!

The StyleARC Sydney

I made this in Western Cape Polyester Lena Crepe by Lady McElroy – I have made this shape before but the fabric sold out so we needed a re-make. The shape is fluid and easy – the kind of garment you could throw on at the beach or wear over layers for colder weather. The only issues I have with this pattern is the hem band seems a little tight to the body hem so maybe take a minimal seam allowance when joining the front and back band. The sizing is very big, our 12 would fit a 14 – 16. You could leave the sleeves uncuffed if you wanted a little more arm coverage. From seeing customers versions of this pattern, I know it also looks amazing in our washed linen plains.

 

 

 

 

The StyleARC Bessie

I sampled this in an olive and pink Saharan Island Polyester Lena Crepe by Lady McElroy – the fabric does have some movement when cutting so I went for a simple shape rather than anything too structured. The pattern did take some cutting out because of the front wrap pieces, but it came together well. You will definitely need a turning tool for the ties though. I feel the Bessie might be based on a  smaller block than some StyleARC shapes so I would say the sizing is true (Australian sizes are the same as UK sizes) – Oh and watch you put your sleeves in the right way round! It was at this point I tried my button sewing function on my machine for the first time – no more unfinished unbuttoned samples for me – could not be easier.

 

 

 

 

The Apron Dress by The Assembly Line

This is an absolute winner of a pattern – we have used it in a workshop – tried and tested in cord, wool, and denim. I chose to make it in a pewter washed linen with pretty shell heart buttons and a feature on the back. I made the pattern 6 inches longer than the pattern – the lengthening process is not as straightforward as some shapes because the seams swing to the front – but it’s all possible if you redraw the side shaping. The instructions for this pattern are very thorough, with only one area that needs care – the front facing which is on the fold on some sizes and has seam allowance on others.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Gable Top by Jennifer Lauren Handmade

This is a new pattern company for us. Whenever I sew from a new pattern house, I tend to be super critical of the instructions – however I found these to be very thorough. I chose to make version 3 to showcase two complimentary jerseys that we have in stock. From the reaction it seems everyone loves hedgehogs. And the raindrops is a nice detail for the cuff. The top is very simple to make – you could easily rattle a few of these off  in prints and plains. I would say this is suitable for beginners.

 

 

 

 

The Ivy Pinafore by Jennifer Lauren Handmade

This shape comes with a straight version and a fuller version. I chose to use our new barkcloth denim which is a really competitive price at £12 /mtr  and a gold coloured thread for my topstitching which gives a pro finish. The only thing I found was that I didn’t read that the garment was fully lined, and I didn’t want that (being a meanie with fabric) so I made an armhole facing pattern (contact me if you would like details on how to do this). I used a 4cm button and felt this was too big to risk a gaping buttonhole, so the machine stitched the buttons on the tabs and I (one day) will sew some big snap fasteners behind the button and onto the undertabs. I also didn’t use interfacing in combination with the denim.  I would probably make the fuller shape next time in a velvet, something fluid and flowing.

There are other shapes that I just don’t get around to making  – the Autumn Dress by StyleARC will be an absolute winner when we make it, and I fancy a Besharl in our value Boucle  – probably the blue/ black colour – maybe these will be there for Glasgow in March.

 

 

I did manage to get a little hotel sewing done (always take my machine and overlocker to the shows)- I used a metre of  Party Friends by Michael Miller and made the StyleARC Andie dress in a size 5 . I faced the sleeve frills out with remnants of the grey border and changed the construction of the top to be as one of my designs (frill construction, shoulder seams, pin/tack  frills onto armhole, then right sides together for body and facing, sew around neckline, understitch, sew around armholes, pull backs though to front – then sew Centre Back seam)

 

 

 

 

We had a lovely time in Exeter – our customers are always so happy we have made the journey – these two ladies bought along their beautifully reconstructed and embellished Luna bags. What did I forget?- Ernest’s Cap patterns, and very little else amazingly.

We sold out of Briar Bunnies, and Flora – along with various dressmaking patterns – but Joan and Sheila have been hard at work producing more kits.

In the shop Jo (shop) has been clearing away the last of the sale wool, and letting me know what trims aren’t online. Fiona has completed the mammoth task of cleaning and rearranging the workshop upstairs, and has put together a Merchant and Mills window. Sam has put all the new samples on display in the shop now we are home

 

 

 

 

 

Jo (post) and Sam have been busy with lots of orders including all the new Liberty that has come in. Sheila is creating a new mountaineering Luna window theme for March and Hattie our Saturday girl made a beautiful new A board which the rain has washed away!!

What have you been sewing or crafting this month? Comment below even if you have made nothing, by the 29th February for a chance to win a metre of Liberty of your choice worth £24. The winner will be chosen by Sarah/ Grace and will be notified through the blog by 5th March 2020. The competition is open internationally.

See you in Glasgow, at the NEC or in Belfast in March , Sarah x