An Argument for the Return of the Housedress

In the beginning, staying in your pyjamas all day might have sounded wonderful, but there are only so many days that you can wear a pair of jogging bottoms and a slogan t-shirt as you move from chair to chair (unless of course you are a key worker (thank you) or fighting hard to keep your business going). This is where the house dress comes in, I have been thinking about what the ultimate piece of clothing is to work from home and how coronavirus is going to change fashion after reading this fantastic article. The house dress makes sense right now, when all of our finest and favourite clothes for going out out are gathering dust on our hangers waiting to meet our loved ones again. Maybe you have given up on jeans, or are saying no to zippers Because what is the point? Or maybe you are thinking why are we even talking about fashion right now with everything that’s going on in the world? And I see your point it does seem trivial but dressing has a really positive effect on your productivity, and mental health is so important when we are missing our families, in a state of high anxiety about the future of the world, and penned in with our own thoughts.

Many of us have the unique opportunity to take our time to make a dress (or item) of clothing that makes us happy and is just for us as individuals.

The house dress was traditionally worn in the house and to pop to the shops, they are comfortable and made from easily washable fabric. The term originated in the late nineteenth century to describe at-home garments designed for maximum practicality and usually made from washable fabrics. It is directly descended from a Victorian gown called the Mother Hubbard Dress, this garment was loose-fitting and designed with the Victorian idea of modesty in mind that gave relief from the tightly fitted and corseted attire of public wear. The house dress would have been bought through catalogues or handmade by the wearer, it was a more relaxed garment than the made to measure styles of the elite or the shortening hemlines of the flappers.

Although an informal garment, the house dress, particularly during the 1950s, was intended to be stylish and feminine as well as serviceable, The concept of attractive house dresses was popularised in the late 1910s by Nelly Don, whose “Nelly Don” house dresses (manufactured by The Donnelly Garment Company) established that house dresses could be both attractive and practical. Some designers became known for house dress designs, such as Claire McCardell whose 1942 popover was equally wearable as a house dress, a dressing-gown, a beach cover-up or even a party dress. The house dress version of McCardell’s popover came with a matching oven glove something that absolutely wouldn’t stand today.

The house dress as a concept has mostly disappeared from British society as ideas of casual wear vs work wear vs formal wear have morphed and merged over the last century. I think it has probably lost some potential devotees through its housewife credentials and links to an outdated ideal of the feminity. But house dress has never been one style, it’s decades women wear evolving to serve us and it’s time we tamed it to this new normal, but creating something for ourselves that is perfect for a zoom call, family board games, a long walk, feeding your sourdough starter, cleaning the bit of the bathroom you haven’t cleaning since you moved in, learning to weave, finally organising the cellar, gardening, or watching more tv than you ever have in your life.

For me it would have sleeves because I don’t want to have to wear a cardigan inside, be midi length because don’t want to wear tight to the home office but I also don’t want to trip going up the stairs to make my 33rd cup of tea in a day, made from cotton, breathable and washable, it would have pockets and not just little token ones, but big ones I can put my phone in and a pencil, maybe a small notepad and some other things that I plan on carrying around with me from room to room.

I want to feel unrestricted when putting it on, so I don’t want anything form-fitting or clingy. It needs to be more appealing than my pyjamas so I want to feel like I look nice too whilst being as comfortable.
That’s the beauty of the house dress it’s what ever you make it and for no one but you.

Here is my pick for the ultimate house dress

Ellis and Hattie

A wonderful and wearable pattern from Mills and Mills that describes its self as “perfect for any mood”

Both feature four delicate neck darts, Ellis, who gets some more feminine shaping from bust darts, is waisted, with set-in sleeves and inseam side pockets. Hattie has a lined bodice, dropped waist and bold patch pockets.

I desperately want to make this dress in this yarn-dyed check, I haven’t even made it yet and I already never want to take it off

Montana Dress

Both comfortable and versatile this dress will work for a variety of occasions. A pull-on dress with extended shoulders that has a loose silhouette which can be worn with everything from sneakers to pumps.

The skirt has slight gathers that fall from the high waist and inseam pockets, best of all this is a no-fuss dress which can be sewn in an afternoon.

How fun is this ex designer crepe georgette, it’s beautifully muted colour pallet and fairytalesque print would compliment the simplicity of the Montana dress perfectly.

The Lichen Duster

This is a pattern that does everything, the versatile Lichen Duster can be worn as a lightweight coat, wrap dress, or robe – a true capsule wardrobe workhorse! Its shawl collar, princess seams, unique pockets, four skirt gores and hand-stitched facings make it a beautiful heirloom piece. Style it over dresses and jumpsuits, or jeans and tees. Use your own belt or wrap the included fabric belt around your waist, tucking in the ends, for a chic morning-to-evening dress. I can’t seem to picture this in anything but linen, the softness of this pattern is begging to highlight the beauty of simplicity. I love this linen-cotton blend by Robert Kaufmann for its subtlety and off-screen this colour falls somewhere between grey and duck egg. Truly beautiful.

The Wilder Gown.

The Wilder Gown is a loose, flowy, tiered dress from the Friday Pattern Company that can be sewn up in many ways. It has raglan sleeves and ties up at the neck. It is easy to sew and is perfect for drapey woven fabrics. The Wilder Gown can be made as a top or dress, long or short-sleeved, with one skirt tier or two. The design is fairly modular so it is easy to customize to your vision.

This is gown looks good in everything, if its woven it will work. I would love to see it in a linen stripe for a chilled beach feel, a gauze would be perfect for walking in the moors, but I think I would go with this gorgeous simple spotted viscose